Enduring Light and Enduring Memory – Two Very Special Commissions

Every bespoke jewellery commission begins with a consultation – a conversation about metals, stones, colours, textures and shapes. Sometimes a client is looking for an entirely original piece made with fresh materials and sometimes they want their piece to incorporate an element that has personal meaning, like a gemstone or metal from an existing piece of jewellery.

Just as important to the initial stages of the design process is a chat about a client’s motivation for commissioning a bespoke piece. It’s a privilege to have a client share their story with me, or tell me the story of someone dear to them who is memorialised in the act of creating and wearing a new piece of jewellery.

Over the course of our conversation, the smallest detail can spark an exciting idea. That was the case with a recent commission for this pair of bespoke earrings.

My client wanted simple and yet eye-catching stud earrings that would give fresh life to two sentimental diamonds. As we chatted, she revealed to me that she has a love of lighthouses.

This caught my imagination.

I can see a lighthouse from my bedroom window – Hoy High lighthouse – as I look out over Hoy Sound to the island of Graemsay. It’s a stunning view, with the high purple ridge of the Hoy hills offsetting the bright white Hoy High lighthouse tower on low-lying Graemsay.

Hoy Sound is a frequent source of inspiration to me – have a look at my Hoy Sound collection here.

It occurred to me that the connection between the faithful guiding light of a lighthouse beacon and the enduring radiance of two cherished diamonds was perfect – it was playful and fitting.

I set the diamonds into with 9ct yellow gold settings, and then hand-engraved scenes emulating Hoy High lighthouse shining out over and protecting the waters of Hoy Sound. Finally, I oxidised the engravings to really make the lines pop.

Hoy High Stud Earrings

It’s truly an honour to be trusted to create a new piece of jewellery with a gemstone or a piece of inherited jewellery that is infused with memory and significance.

Even more so when that commission is for memorial jewellery that will hold the ashes of someone loved and remembered.

A client approached me to create a locket made with silver from a piece of jewellery which belonged to her grandmother, and which would also preserve her mother-in-law’s ashes.

She had a lovely idea to incorporate her mother-in-law’s favourite flowers, daffodils and snowdrops, into the final piece. I sketched out some designs and once she had selected her favourite, I began work.

Watch the making of a special memorial locket.

First, I melted her grandmother’s silver to create silver sheet. From this, two circles, the bail and the setting were saw-pierced out. I domed the circles and soldered them together, then created a cavity at an edge and soldered the setting and the bail. The pendant was then sanded and polished to a mirror finish.

Next, the pendant was sent to a laser specialist to engrave the flower image on the surface.

Finally, the ashes were carefully inserted into the cavity and a marquise Blue Topaz was set into the cavity, acting as a seal.

One final polish and the piece was complete.

‘Zoe, I’m lost for words. It is beautiful. It has a lovely weight and so tactile. You have made it so precious. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.’

I found it incredibly moving to hear that my client plans to wear the memorial locket to her daughter’s wedding next year, making it possible for family members that have passed on to be present at that happy occasion.

Insert video of finished locket with Zoe reflecting on the act of trust

FAQS: USING ASHES IN JEWELLERY COMMISSIONS

How is it possible to incorporate ashes into a piece of jewellery?
There are several ways. It’s possible to:

• create a tiny chamber for the ashes and seal it closed
• mix the ashes into resin (perhaps with some colour) to create a type of gemstone, and then set it into a stone setting
• set the ashes behind a gemstone.

Can you mix the ashes into sentimental metal?
No – the ashes will burn off and create small holes in the metal (porosity) once cast. This would result in a poor-quality item.

How much ash do you need?
It depends on how large the piece of jewellery is, but one teaspoon is usually the right amount.

Will you update me on the jewellery-making process?
Yes. With all commissions, we send photos/videos of the process. This allows for minor adjustments as the piece is created.

Can I have my item engraved?
Yes. Pieces can be engraved by hand or by laser.

How long do commissions take?
At the moment, around 10–12 weeks from consultation to delivery of the final piece.

Would you like to commission a bespoke piece of jewellery?

My new online booking system is now up and running – book your appointment to discuss a commission.

Alternatively, call or email:
+44 (0)7730893625
made@zoedavidsonjewellery.co.uk

Better still, come and chat to me about commissioning a bespoke piece at one of my summer pop-ups! This is where I’ll be:

JUNE
13 June 2023                        J.B. Rosey, Stromness, Orkney
24–30 June 2023                 Plainstones, Stromness, Orkney

JULY
1–2 July 2023                       Tea Green Events Summer Market at Aberdeen Art Gallery, Aberdeen

AUGUST
12 August 2023                    County Show, Kirkwall, Orkney

Hope to see you there!

Zoe

Strike Action Dates and Delivery

Just letting all our lovely customers know that the Communication Workers Union at Royal Mail and ParcelForce Worldwide have voted to strike on the dates below which will potentially cause delays. We are now nearing the busiest time of year here at Zoe Davidson Jewellery so please do order as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

Timescales for Christmas Delivery
It can take a wee while to get your order made and packaged for you. A lot of the items on our website are made-to-order – from forming, sanding, setting stones and polishing. So you can be assured you are receiving a brand new piece of jewellery. In addition, unexpected things can happen so it is always good to order well ahead. See below for suggested delivery timescales:

UK Delivery Timescales
– For silver items we suggest ordering 2-3 weeks in advance.
– For all gold items we suggest ordering 4 weeks in advance.

International Delivery Timescales
– For silver items we suggest ordering 4 weeks in advance.
– For all gold items we suggest ordering 6 weeks in advance.

Bespoke Orders for Christmas
Please note our diary is closed for bespoke orders.

If you have any questions about any of the above please get in touch.

New** Skara Brae Collection launch at the Royal Highland Show

2022 is undoubtedly a year of celebration, reflection, joining together and renewal. That is why I wanted to finally bring to life a project I’ve had in mind for a long time. My Skara Brae Collection is here!

I have long been fascinated by the shape of the houses at Skara Brae and the people who occupied them. Being onsite it is easy to imagine them walking through the passages of their village, sleeping in the beds, cooking by the fire, using the grinding stones.

There is a familiarity to the order of the houses at Skara Brae. But there are unknowns too. No one really knows what the roofing materials were made from for instance. And what stories were they telling each other?

As we endured lockdown, the physical layout and structure of our homes took on a whole new meaning for each and every one of us. In Orkney, the architecture of Skara Brae is a blueprint of our shared story, and a wider story of connection across millennia and geography.

As is almost universally true, the hearth is central. This is where stories are told and constants in communities are passed on, restored, revived, emboldened and repeated. These hearth stories are the foundations of our own identities, from whichever society we originate, however far we travel and however long we are separated.

As I walk around Skara Brae I easily imagine myself joining those Neolithic people around a glowing hearth; connecting over 5000 years of history. It must have been a very cold home with everything made of stone. But a hearth is warmth, where people chat and talk and cook food – who doesn’t want to be there?!

After making a lot of sketches, studying aerial maps and reflecting on how people lived there, I made paper maquette (models), stuck them together, took them apart and played around with designs.

Then I moved to copper samples. They were too flat and missing something. The pieces needed a heart. I added the raised hearth containing a warm yellow citrine stone which gives the necklace the contemporary feel and 3D interest I wanted.

Most pieces will be available in two different finishes – semi-shiny as well as a more matt finish. To create the matt finish, I use a frosting wheel – a wheel with lots of tiny needles on it – to scratch in texture which I polish after to create a lovely textured look that echoes the individual stones in the walls of Skara Brae.

Workshop – 3D Pendant

House 1 Drop Earrings Silver

The full collection is still a work in progress but I’m excited to share what I’ve already produced. I’m experimenting with London blue topaz for the sea, Mozambique garnet for earth and tourmaline for grass. My own personal favourite are earrings – more to come on them.

Recycling fit for a Viking Warrior!

My client wanted a ring that was: ‘chunky as hell. An organic looking ring. Like it has come from the sea, made by a dwarf in a cave for a viking’’.

What a glorious brief!

‘I’m mainly interested in the gold as it all has family attachments. My family doesn’t have a tree. We have a twig and I’m the last one. I have no-one to pass anything on to.’

Among the collection of jewellery she’d inherited were her Mother’s and Grandmother’s engagement rings. Together they held six diamonds. 

She asked that the diamonds be kept together and specified that they be set flush to minimise the risk of them catching and being lost while she worked. 

The design was to be drawn from her love of Vikings and their symbols. She gave me a few of her favourites to consider. In the end I went with the Helm of Awe.  

The Helm of Awe is first written about in the 13^th century. It features widely in Norse mythology both as a physical and metaphorical object.  It is depicted as a warrior’s symbol of protection and invincibility, and also as a protector. If worn it is considered to shield the bearer through tougher times in life and help them gain success and strength.   Even today it remains a popular and one of the best known Icelandic symbols. 

As I was asked to produce ‘a chunky ring’ I decided to deconstruct the Helm of Awe forms into repeating elements around the ring. 

The ring was hand carved in wax. This is where I added the symbols and the rough textures using files and ball burrs. Next the item went for casting using the client’s own gold. After a bit more texturing and finessing it was time for the diamonds. They were carefully flush-set into the front of the ring in an asymmetrical arrangement.

What a beauty

I love this chunky, strong, filled with meaning, dwarf-made ring. It was a real pleasure to create. When I take on commissions I often end up learning new things about subjects, people, objects and places that are within the story of the jewellery to be remodelled, and the intent for their renewal.

It is my feeling that the imbibed sentiment and meaning is preserved within the materials. That legacy endures even as the metal and gemstones are repurposed. A new layer of purpose and value is added to the existing story. Sometimes I find myself imagining how many other roles and forms the metal and stones had before our meeting.

Who knows. Perhaps in another life I was indeed a sea dwelling, cave dwarf goldsmith and I’ve already worked this gold in a previous time!

Are you looking to get a piece of bespoke jewellery designed for you? Although I have a bit of a waiting list – don’t hesitate to get in touch! I’ll pop you on the waiting list. 

Zoe’s Back at Glasgow’s Country Living Christmas Fair

It’s great to be back at the Country Living Christmas Fair – Glasgow.

It’s not difficult to get in the mood for Christmas when you go the Country Living Fair. Honestly, I am so looking forward to it. After a hiatus due to COVID last year, it feels great to be going back to Glasgow on 2^nd -5^th December.

The preparation starts a few months before. One of the first jobs is getting the design for the stand ready. It always helps me to reflect on the past year – what has changed and what new pieces I am taking this year. With a two-year break, it also reminded me how life has changed and adapted.

The other big job is creating the pieces that I am taking with me. The workshop is a hive of industry as I focus on the various collections, sizes and styles that I am taking with me. As they are all hand finished with some requiring stones to be set, it can take a wee while to bring it all together.

This year I am taking some new products which are exclusive to the fair.

The earrings are my new bespoke triple fold earrings. I love the new texture that I have introduced, with small vertical ridges.

I am also taking new bespoke necklaces with Blue Topaz and Opal. Although they are not available on the website just yet – you can see my bespoke range here for similar pieces: https://zoedavidsonjewellery.co.uk/bespoke-collection/

New to my website are two new gift sets which I think you may like. Order by 22^nd December for UK delivery before Christmas. The Sculptural Swirl Pendant with London Blue Topaz and Wavelet Topaz Studs and the Sculptural Swirl Pendant and Plain Wavelet Studs. Order in time for Christmas!

If you are at the fair, please do come and say hello. I do have five pairs of tickets available if you are fast. Simply email me at made@zoedavidsonjewellery.co.uk and the first five will receive them.

Wedding Jewellery

Melding unique, traditional & new in every piece

From left to right: A cat’s eye alexandrite, a peridot, 2 white cubic zirconia , 2 sky blue topaz, blue zircon, ruby and amethyst.
Each gemstone raindrop represents a birthstone for all the relatives and siblings in the family.

I recently had the joy of being commissioned to create this special oak leaf brooch. It was requested by a bride to gift to her father to wear at her wedding. The oak is his favourite tree and with such symbolism around strength and wisdom it was the perfect choice.

The design concept came from the client. She wanted gemstones to lay like a raindrop on the surface of an oak leaf. Every gemstone raindrop represents a birthstone for all the relatives and siblings in the family.

Naturally it was very important to me that I create a piece to match the sentiments of the family, the importance of their day, and the importance of her father.

Weddings are of course the joining of two families. The ceremony celebrates a couple embarking on something new. I wanted the piece to reflect the melding of tradition and new, as well as the people involved.

I began with a sketch of an oak leaf which I sent to a local company called Peedie Models. They printed a 3D version which I used to form a mould and cast the silver for the basic leaf shape.

I wanted to have more texture and dimension so I used a range of high-speed rotating files which jewellery-makers called burrs. They work basically like a Dremel tool and are usually used to make stone settings within metal. I used them to sculpt bark texture, accentuate leaf veins and give the leaf more visual depth. The gemstones were set as the last details.

I think she created a beautiful representation of her close and loving family. It was a wonderful tribute to her father, and I hope will be an enduring memory of her wedding day. I needed to use a mix of traditional and new techniques to create it for her, but that seemed a fitting reflection for a wedding – something old, something new.

It was really an honour to be part of making her idea come to reality. I hope the family enjoy the brooch for years to come. Perhaps it will get worn at the Golden Wedding celebrations. Never really knowing what happens next is part of the excitement and pleasure of sending my work out from my studio.

Thank you for all your support
Zoe

Summer Giveaway and Bestsellers

As summer is drawing to a close, I wanted to say a huge ‘Thank you’ to my loyal customers by giving away a completely one off pendant. I am going to choose a winner from my newsletter subscribers on 21^st  September 2021 – the official last day of summer.

The prize is a one-off Sculptural Asymmetric Pendant with London Blue Topaz. It’s an absolute stunner. London Blue Topaz is a particular favourite stone of mine. I like the deep blue colour and the way it contrasts with silver, drawing your eye into the centre of the piece.

If you are my lucky winner, just look out for an email after that date! Why don’t you get your friends and family to sign up too and see if they win, click here to enter. *

In other news, I have been updating and refreshing my website. Why not have a browse? Particular best sellers at the moment are:

They come in a variety of stones including ruby, tourmaline (green), blue and white topaz. They are also fantastic as stacking rings – so you can wear more than one at a time.

My swirl pendants have also proven popular this year including these ones.

The Lapis Lazuli Sculptural Swirl is a true statement pendant featuring a bright blue Lapis Lazuli enclosed in a 9ct yellow gold setting. A sculptural silver swirl surrounds the stone as if a wave crashing onto the shore. An utterly beautiful piece to wear.

Created entirely by hand using the silversmithing technique of fold forming, this large luxurious Saving Lives Pendant is a true style statement. Intricate sculptured layers of folded metal carefully enclose the delicate lifeboat at the centre of this piece. The stippled texture of the surrounding metal perfectly reflects the sea foam from the boat.

Thank you again for all your support and good luck in the competition!

Zoe

*Giveaway Terms and Conditions: The giveaway is open for all Zoe Davidson Jewellery Newsletter Subscribers. A winner will be drawn at random on 21^st September 2021. The winner will be notified by 24^th September 2021. The prize will be one Sculptural Aysemmetric Pendant with London Blue Topaz. No cash alternative is offered. The judges decision is final.

Remodelling jewellery – things to know

“The finished ring is absolutely stunning a very contemporary design, with the symbol for eternity incorporated. I absolutely love it, and more importantly so does Molly [Shelley’s daughter]… a very special gift spanning 3 generations, now much loved and cherished. I highly recommend Zoe, her standard of work is superb, she is a true creative and ever more, she is helpful and lovely. Thank you Zoe, we will be back!”

Part of testimonial by client, Shelley.

Creating new jewellery and remodelling is such a pleasure. I get to hear the stories and connections that people have with their jewellery. Often it is about generations, where stones and precious metals have been passed down. It is not just about the ring and the materials but what it symbolises that is so important. The value becomes priceless – just like the memories that are recalled when wearing these beautiful, miniature works of art.

Left: Carving the infinity design by hand. Right: Ring mount soldered together which will then be soldered to the main band.

This ring in particular brings that to the fore. A diamond ring, given to a daughter by her mother, has been re-modelled to include a hand carved infinity ring showing the endless love a mother has. Using the diamond from the original ring, the new ring captures memories and emotions in a way that is unique for her daughter.

Many people think that re-modelling is simply melting down the metals and re-setting the stones. This is far from the truth. The time taken in designing the piece and caring for the original precious elements takes much longer. Surprisingly, this can be more expensive than simply buying a new ring.

In this case, the original ring was white gold. Unfortunately, this is prone to cracking when melted down, so I was unable to use this for the final piece. Metals such as white gold and platinum are particularly prone to problems due to the alloys used.

Stones can also be re-used but again there are some limitations. Firstly, there is one of value. Re-setting diamonds is usually economical. High quality sapphires and rubies also can be worth re-modelling. With semi-precious stones the value of the piece may be less than the labour in terms of re-modelling, so it is for you to decide what would be best. This can also be true of smaller stones. Finally, some stones may not be able to be re-modelled. Emeralds, for instance, can be a little brittle especially if older.

If you would like a piece of jewellery re-modelled, such as a brooch, ring or necklace, please feel free to get in contact. We can talk about your aspirations as well as any limitations. I hope that together we can capture those precious memories, just maybe in a new package.

Capturing old memories through new pieces: Remodelling and renewal.

One of the greatest privileges I have is being let into some of the most intimate and treasured memories in people’s lives and being trusted with the objects that hold them.

We all have those pieces of sentimental jewellery we no longer wear. This client wanted to blend a ring from her Grandmother, a silver ring which held very precious memories, and a bangle given to her as a baby – all into a brand new ring. 

“When my mum suggested I use my christening bracelet to get a piece of jewellery made for my 50th birthday I had no idea where to start looking for a designer. I came across Zoe’s website and was wowed by her beautiful unique designs so contacted her.”

The Brief

The brief was delightful: something a bit unusual, a gold and silver blend, a hint of sparkle, with two pinkish morganites and a grey diamond. 

We exchanged emails until I felt I really sure I understood her style and likes. I was able then to send her several hand drawn designs for consideration until we landed on the final design. It included sourcing a salt and pepper diamond to add that ‘unusual’ element she wanted.

“Her [Zoe’s] enthusiasm to make me something very special was evident from our first contact and throughout the entire process.” 

Remodelling

The moment must come when much loved pieces are melted down. Before I do, I always acknowledge the memories each piece represents and remind myself of my responsibility to care for those memories throughout the whole process. 

A rolling mill is used to turn silver into sheets, and gold into wire.

A band is made from the sheet of silver

Texture is added through a process known as retriculation. The top layer of silver is heated until just melted which creates a ‘molten-like’ texture and gives the metal a really organic look and feel.

Two lengths of remodelled gold wire were shaped around the ring and soldered. Three tubes also made from the client’s gold were soldered onto the front of the ring.

New Treasure

The whole ring gets a thorough sand and polish ready for the gemstones and then presentation to the client. It nearly brought me to tears when she put it on. It is in these moments I remember why I do what I do.

“Many thanks to Zoe for making a new treasure out of old treasures and memories”

Orkney bound – happy couple create their own wedding rings

I can’t hide it – I absolutely love designing jewellery when the heart is involved. It could be engagements, anniversaries, the birth of a child – or in this case – for a wedding.

But this was not a commission. The couple wanted to come to Orkney and spend a day making their wedding bands.

I was delighted – but worried as it was not something I had done before however for this beautiful couple I was honoured to be part of their journey.

As it was February 2020, none of us really knew what the world had in store for us. We hadn’t really yet understood what COVID meant – or the length and number of times we would hear the word ‘Lockdown’. So, I write this blog without pictures of the finished rings. They will be revealed at another time – hopefully later this year when the couple finally get to be married.

Having a wee tipple to celebrate after the pair completed their wedding rings.

The planning process for the workshop started off with us discussing their designs over the phone and email – what they wanted to feature and what they wanted from the day. Whilst I wanted to keep things simple, I was also determined to help them create rings they would be proud of for years to come.

I was delighted that on the day they took to it really well – which was a relief as there was saw-piercing, soldering, polishing and not as gentle hammering as you would believe. It was a great feeling to be able to share the process with them. They couldn’t believe how much time it took to create jewellery. It was an interesting perspective and one I don’t really think about when I am absorbed in my work.

They thoroughly enjoyed their day – and we all enjoyed the glass of Prosecco at the end. I am so glad that we managed to do it.

We genuinely had the best day

“It is lovely to have seen where the jewellery that Zoe makes is made but also to feel like you were being a ‘real’ jeweller yourself. We genuinely had the best day, and are so excited to wear our jewellery for ever, and completely proud that we got to make it for each other – thank you Zoe for saying yes to my request you’ve made it possible for us to have the rings we wanted in the way we wanted them.”
– Feedback from the lovely pair

When we are allowed to mix socially again, I plan to make this workshop available to book via my website. If you or someone you know would like to create their wedding bands, then please feel free to get in contact.