Every bespoke jewellery commission begins with a consultation – a conversation about metals, stones, colours, textures and shapes. Sometimes a client is looking for an entirely original piece made with fresh materials and sometimes they want their piece to incorporate an element that has personal meaning, like a gemstone or metal from an existing piece of jewellery.
Just as important to the initial stages of the design process is a chat about a client’s motivation for commissioning a bespoke piece. It’s a privilege to have a client share their story with me, or tell me the story of someone dear to them who is memorialised in the act of creating and wearing a new piece of jewellery.
Over the course of our conversation, the smallest detail can spark an exciting idea. That was the case with a recent commission for this pair of bespoke earrings.
My client wanted simple and yet eye-catching stud earrings that would give fresh life to two sentimental diamonds. As we chatted, she revealed to me that she has a love of lighthouses.
This caught my imagination.
I can see a lighthouse from my bedroom window – Hoy High lighthouse – as I look out over Hoy Sound to the island of Graemsay. It’s a stunning view, with the high purple ridge of the Hoy hills offsetting the bright white Hoy High lighthouse tower on low-lying Graemsay.
Hoy Sound is a frequent source of inspiration to me – have a look at my Hoy Sound collection here.
It occurred to me that the connection between the faithful guiding light of a lighthouse beacon and the enduring radiance of two cherished diamonds was perfect – it was playful and fitting.
I set the diamonds into with 9ct yellow gold settings, and then hand-engraved scenes emulating Hoy High lighthouse shining out over and protecting the waters of Hoy Sound. Finally, I oxidised the engravings to really make the lines pop.
It’s truly an honour to be trusted to create a new piece of jewellery with a gemstone or a piece of inherited jewellery that is infused with memory and significance.
Even more so when that commission is for memorial jewellery that will hold the ashes of someone loved and remembered.
A client approached me to create a locket made with silver from a piece of jewellery which belonged to her grandmother, and which would also preserve her mother-in-law’s ashes.
She had a lovely idea to incorporate her mother-in-law’s favourite flowers, daffodils and snowdrops, into the final piece. I sketched out some designs and once she had selected her favourite, I began work.
First, I melted her grandmother’s silver to create silver sheet. From this, two circles, the bail and the setting were saw-pierced out. I domed the circles and soldered them together, then created a cavity at an edge and soldered the setting and the bail. The pendant was then sanded and polished to a mirror finish.
Next, the pendant was sent to a laser specialist to engrave the flower image on the surface.
Finally, the ashes were carefully inserted into the cavity and a marquise Blue Topaz was set into the cavity, acting as a seal.
One final polish and the piece was complete.
‘Zoe, I’m lost for words. It is beautiful. It has a lovely weight and so tactile. You have made it so precious. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.’
I found it incredibly moving to hear that my client plans to wear the memorial locket to her daughter’s wedding next year, making it possible for family members that have passed on to be present at that happy occasion.
Insert video of finished locket with Zoe reflecting on the act of trust
FAQS: USING ASHES IN JEWELLERY COMMISSIONS
How is it possible to incorporate ashes into a piece of jewellery?
There are several ways. It’s possible to:
- create a tiny chamber for the ashes and seal it closed
- mix the ashes into resin (perhaps with some colour) to create a type of gemstone, and then set it into a stone setting
- set the ashes behind a gemstone.
Can you mix the ashes into sentimental metal?
No – the ashes will burn off and create small holes in the metal (porosity) once cast. This would result in a poor-quality item.
How much ash do you need?
It depends on how large the piece of jewellery is, but one teaspoon is usually the right amount.
Will you update me on the jewellery-making process?
Yes. With all commissions, we send photos/videos of the process. This allows for minor adjustments as the piece is created.
Can I have my item engraved?
Yes. Pieces can be engraved by hand or by laser.
How long do commissions take?
At the moment, around 10–12 weeks from consultation to delivery of the final piece.
Would you like to commission a bespoke piece of jewellery?
My new online booking system is now up and running – book your appointment to discuss a commission.
Alternatively, call or email:
+44 (0)7730893625
made@zoedavidsonjewellery.co.uk
Better still, come and chat to me about commissioning a bespoke piece at one of my summer pop-ups! This is where I’ll be:
JUNE
13 June 2023 J.B. Rosey, Stromness, Orkney
24–30 June 2023 Plainstones, Stromness, Orkney
JULY
1–2 July 2023 Tea Green Events Summer Market at Aberdeen Art Gallery, Aberdeen
AUGUST
12 August 2023 County Show, Kirkwall, Orkney
Hope to see you there!
Zoe
Zoe Davidson Jewellery 